The Ghost of Fashion’s Past
The fashion industry has a knack for living vicariously through what once was. Some may say it’s almost haunting. There is no doubt fashion has brought new and fresh ideas to the world but one thing that has remained are elements of the past. Historically, trends recirculate every 20 years, reintroducing old silhouettes to new eras. However, with the rise in social media within the last decade, it has become apparent that various styles are now reintroduced concurrently as the world collectively moves through cycles faster. The collections that have hit the runway this year explore different moments from past decades, creating an ever-revolving door in the industry.
A prominent decade of the 20th century is the 1960s. The mid-’60s debuted some of the most considerable changes in the world. With the Civil Rights movement, opposition to the Vietnam War, and the assassinations of Martin Luther King Jr. and the Kennedys, the political climate of the world caused a shift in the arts. One of the biggest artistic movements of the time was Pop Art. Originating in England, Pop Art peaked in the ‘60s, drawing inspiration from pop culture and well-known brands to create a surrealist, comic book-like version of photos. Many thought this to be a response against the rise in mass consumerism, blurring the lines and challenging the traditional views that art held at the time. You may think of the Campbell’s Soup Cans or Marilyn Diptique paintings by none other than Andy Warhol, a pioneer of the Pop Art movement, or the paper dresses with elements of the art printed on them. Fashion designers like Yves Saint Laurent became inspired by this new development of art. He created a collection based on this movement, incorporating images of faces into his dresses.
Balmain’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection appears to exhibit aspects that pay homage to the 60s. The collection created by Olivier Rousteing featured the same Pop Art style, but with facial images hand-embroidered using hundreds of thousands of pearlescent beads. The second dress to hit the runway in this collection displaying an image of Kylie Jenner’s face in those same pearlescent beads also looks eerily similar to a dress from YSL’s 1966 Autumn/Winter collection entitled “Homage to Pop Art.” The black long-sleeved, maxi-length bodycon from the ‘60s collection creates a shadow, perfectly carving out a silhouette of the body embroidered.
One thing to note is that the overall silhouettes that we see here in Balmain’s collection do not directly reference the ‘60s. It does, however, reflect a very popular silhouette from the 1980s. The ‘80s was a time of female liberation, body positivity, and eccentric designs. With women entering the workforce in droves during this period, designers like Yves Saint Laurent, once again, reimagined the 1940s silhouette, which was one of the earlier times women began to enter the workplace during World War II. Designs in the ‘80s displayed broad, sharp shoulders paired with slacks creating what is known as the power suit. Here in Balmain’s collection, there is an exaggerated use of those same broad shoulders on various pieces from dresses to suits.
“Fashion is only the attempt to realize art in living forms and social intercourse”
Seeing fashion as art and art as history helps us better understand why fashion is the revolving door it is. In the words of Francis Bacon, "Fashion is only the attempt to realize art in living forms and social intercourse." History reflects past events in familiar ways. Fashion is directly impacted by the state of the world and the silhouettes currently being reinterpreted can indicate where we are now. The ‘40s, ‘60s, and ‘80s were times of global conflict, emphasis on economic status, and liberation. Today, there is a focus on all three simultaneously and the designs hitting the runway during this decade can confirm.
As you can see, the 20-year cycle remains consistent throughout fashion. Olivier Rousteing’s design for Balmain’s Spring 2025 collection is an excellent example of the intertwining of silhouettes we have seen in the 21st century, proving the theory that multiple trends are happening at once. With the combination of styles from the 1960s and the 1980s, it is empowering to see them become one during a time like today when diversity and inclusivity in fashion are becoming celebrated. With much more work to do for a brighter future, we will have moments like this in fashion as it continues to change to help us reflect on times before.
